Sri Lanka > Elephants in Pinnawela

Today I leave Negombo and Villa Araliya. As I depart, the staff wave me off enthusiastically. First, I head to the airport. This is the first chance that my travel companion’s suitcase can arrive from Rome. If the suitcase arrives, we can immediately take it along toward Sigiriya. At the airport, a form must be filled out at the first counter. With this ticket, you then proceed in the opposite direction through customs. I am not allowed to go with her; I stay waiting outside the terminal. The longer it takes, the less likely I think the suitcase will appear.

Sri Lanka - The elephant sanctuary of Pinnawela

Still, after half an hour, she walks up with it. Luckily! Inside, numerous forms had to be filled out and the suitcase’s contents inspected. Fortunately, the suitcase is finally here. We quickly load it into the car and drive to Pinnawela, home to a sanctuary for injured and abandoned elephants. Every day, the eighty elephants are led to the river for a wash. I buy a relatively expensive ticket—probably the entrance fee helps support the elephants’ upkeep. I take the path to the Maya Oya River, where the elephants are. It’s drizzling lightly. On both sides, numerous souvenir shops line the way. By the water, I see elephants standing in the river and many tourists on the riverbank. I try to keep the umbrellas out of my photos. Several elephants roll in the mud on the opposite side of the river. Since it will still be a while before the elephants return, I order a cola at a terrace. Meanwhile, the elephants play in the water, seemingly unconcerned about the weather. Around noon, all the elephants are herded together. It’s time to move on. They come out of the water as one group, walking through the narrow path. They pass me closely—an impressive sight. I continue toward Kurunegala. In this provincial town lies the Elephant Rock. The rock has the shape of a lying elephant. Upon arrival, Ajbriy points out the rock.

Sri Lanka - A large Buddha statue on top of Elephant Rock

With a little imagination, I can make out an elephant. I had understood that I could climb the rock, but before I realize it, Ajbriy has already driven the car up, probably due to the rain. Via a winding, steep road, I reach the top of the rock. Here stands a colossal Buddha statue. From the terrace in front of the statue, I have a magnificent view over Kurunegala. Luckily, it is dry at this moment. I also see a staircase leading into the statue. Disappointingly, it leads only to a small prayer area—nothing more. I also visit the Ethkanda Viharaya temple on the other side of the rock. I walk around the stupa and view the monks’ quarters. Just outside Kurunegala, I stop for lunch. It’s already half past two, and I’m quite hungry. I order a sandwich. From the lunch spot, it’s about a two-hour drive to Sigiriya. On the way, roadworks are in progress. The road is being widened. Impatiently, cars and buses try to overtake each other, with maneuvers that sometimes barely succeed. Motorbikes and tuk-tuks have little right of way—they are forced onto the shoulder during overtaking. The journey goes smoothly without accidents—until the last turn. A stray dog is sleeping in the street and doesn’t notice us turning in time. A thump and yelp sound as it scrambles to the side. It appears unharmed. The Kassapa Lions Rock Resort lies about a kilometer off the road. I am welcomed with a drink. The cottage looks neat, and so do the restaurant and swimming pool—a perfect location for the next three nights.