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Travelogue Tram 28 Through Lisbon

April 30 May 4 2013 (5 days)


Portugal > On foot to Belém

Dag 3 - Thursday, May 2, 2013

The weather is beautiful. I decide to walk to the Belém district, located a bit outside the city center. When I arrive at the Tagus River, it looks stunning under the sun and a blue sky. I follow a wide bike path along the waterfront, separated from the busy traffic. The path is busy with joggers; this is probably the only flat stretch in the city. In the distance, I see the Ponte 25 de Abril. This large bridge over the Tagus River is a copy of the San Francisco bridge in the United States. Slowly, the bridge comes closer. After an hour and a half of walking, I reach it—and only then do I realize how high it is. A constant hum comes from the cars speeding across the bridge. Occasionally, a train passes along the lower deck. This bridge is the main connection between north and south. In the old warehouses by the docks, there are now trendy restaurants. After some searching, I find one that’s already open before noon. I order a cola and enjoy the view of the water. On the opposite bank, I see the Christ statue, over a hundred meters high, looking across the river at the city.

Portugal - Fishermen by the bridge over the Tagus

I continue walking toward Belém. Around midday, I arrive at the Belém Monument. Portuguese explorers stand on a large concrete monument. At the front is Henry the Navigator, followed closely by Vasco da Gama. Before visiting the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos monastery, I stop at the Pastéis de Belém bakery. This bakery is famous for its Portuguese pastéis. I buy a type of pastry made from puff pastry, filled with warm vanilla custard. The pastéis is made according to a secret recipe originating from the monastery. It tastes excellent. The Mosteiro dos Jerónimos monastery dates back to the 14th century. The Hieronymite monastery is one of Lisbon’s most prominent buildings. It was probably built in gratitude for Vasco da Gama’s successful voyage to India. The discovery of the sea route made King Manuel I the richest monarch in Europe. I enter the monastery. The courtyard is surrounded by a beautiful cloister. The arches overlooking the courtyard are particularly well-crafted. The rooms of the old monastery are also worth seeing. Finally, I visit the monastery chapel, a beautifully decorated little church.

Portugal - The beautiful monastery in the Belem district

Back outside the monastery, I continue to the banks of the Tagus River and visit the Tower of Belém. This fort tower once served to defend the river mouth and the city of Lisbon. I try to reach the highest platform via the very narrow stone spiral staircase. Because ascending and descending people use the same staircase, it quickly gets congested. Those descending have to pass on the narrow section, which would be more convenient if visitors went in groups up and down. This bottleneck costs me a lot of time to reach the top—but the wait is worth it. I enjoy a stunning view over the Belém district and the Tagus River. Descending is relatively calm, allowing me to make my way down easily. Back in Belém, I look for a tram to return to the city center. When I board and try to buy a ticket, I discover that tickets are not sold on this modern tram. There’s only a payment machine where coins can be used, but I don’t have any. I decide to travel without a ticket. I reach the city center without trouble and have a meal in one of the restaurants near the hotel.

Praca do ComercioThe Praca do Comercio The triumphal arch and statue are under scaffolding
Rua AugustaThe busy shopping street Rua Augusta in the centre
Castelo de So JorgeThe Castelo de So Jorge rises above the city centre
PeekthroughA glimpse through one of the narrow streets in the center