Belgium > City walk in Leuven

On the ground floor, a breakfast buffet is ready. It’s small but has everything you need. I take some bread rolls, toppings, and a cappuccino. A good start to the day. Outside, the sun is shining brightly. I see only people walking by without jackets. Should I take mine or not? I decide to bring my jacket. I can always take it off later. Shortly after, we leave the hotel. We start the day with a tour of the university library. Using an audio tour, we get information about the nearly hundred-year-old building. On the richly decorated façade, the animal figures on the gable ends stand out. The animals refer to the countries that helped with the rebuilding after the First World War: the Russian bear, the Norwegian unicorn, and the American eagle. In the hall stands a model of the tower. Here you can clearly see the open design of the tower. On the first floor is the reading room. The room was restored after the devastating fire during the Second World War. From the hall, we start climbing the tower. Along the way, on each floor, there are explanations about the construction, damage, and rebuilding. From the tower, we have a view over Leuven. The city center lies below us in lovely sunshine. I see the Stella Artois breweries. On the other side is the Groot Begijnhof. We will encounter many of the historic buildings today. First, we walk to the station. In front of the building stands an impressive monument for all victims of the Great War, the name for the First World War.

Belgium - After the damage during World War II the library was restored

At a terrace by the square, we order coffee. Lovely in the sun. On the north side of the center lies the Klein Begijnhof. This narrow street with whitewashed houses originated in the 13th century. The current buildings, for the poor inhabitants of Leuven, came a few centuries later. Today, mostly students live there. Via the Sint Geertruihof, we arrive at the Vismarkt. It’s clear that Leuven is a student city. Everywhere you see young people and cozy terraces. Also, on the courtyard of the Augustinian monastery, there is hospitality. Behind a Romanesque gate lies a chapel. We are lucky; the door is open. Normally, you can only visit the chapel during events. The Leuven Botanical Garden is the oldest botanical garden in Belgium. Its origins date back to 1738. The park is beautiful, and many plants are just in bloom—a colorful spectacle. In the orangery stand some huge exotic plants. Opposite the Botanical Garden hangs a heavily decayed sign: "Hortus Botanicus." Behind the gate with this sign lies the former Anatomical Amphitheater. There is little left but an old round building, the attendant apologizes.

Belgium - The restored Great Beguinage in Leuven

Enthusiastically, she tells us about the Saint John the Baptist church in the Groot Begijnhof, which we will see later. “Don’t forget to look at the chapel on the left in front,” she advises. She would have preferred to be volunteering there today. Before we arrive at that church, we pass the Saint Anthony chapel. In the crypt lies the grave of Father Damien. Father Damien devoted himself to lepers in the 19th century. Due to his help, he himself contracted the disease and died from it. Via the Zwartzuster monastery, we arrive at the Groot Begijnhof. The Begijnhof dates back to the 13th century. It once counted 360 Beguines. In 1962, the university bought the Begijnhof and restored it as a residential area. It is delightful to wander through the streets. The old atmosphere comes alive again. The Begijnhof church stands in the middle. A beautiful church with a magnificent carved wooden pulpit. It is almost three o’clock. We decide to shorten the route and skip some churches and chapels. Via the Naamsestraat, we walk back to the Market Square. Opposite the Gothic town hall stands the Saint Peter’s cathedral. The largest and most important church of Leuven. The cathedral displays old paintings and frescoes. Here too, the pulpit is a work of art. At four o’clock, we have tickets for a tour of the town hall. After booking, we were informed that it is also an open day.

Belgium - The council chamber in the city hall of Leuven

Participation in the tour remained, but we didn’t have to pay. The tour is in English. Agnes welcomes us and tells us that 236 statues are incorporated into the façade. Important people from Leuven and religious figures are depicted. The grandeur of the town hall was meant to express the city’s status compared to competitors such as Brussels, Mechelen, Ghent, and Bruges. Because of the open day, it is busy inside. Sometimes it is hard to understand Agnes because she has a soft voice. The reception rooms have just been fully restored. The rooms, decorated with much gold, show the 18th-century style. Next year, the town hall will be closed for four years for renovation, Agnes explains. “So you’re just in time,” she jokes. On the first floor are the council chamber and the mayor’s office. Each a beautiful room. After the tour, it’s time for a drink. We are lucky. Although the terraces in the sun look busy, a table just becomes free. We quickly order a beer. Stella Artois, of course. This beer comes from Leuven. For dinner, we have reserved a table at another brewery, the Domus House Brewery. Tonight it’s a bit less busy than yesterday, but all tables are occupied. As a starter, we begin with a beer tasting of three Domus beers, all brewed here. The third beer, Domus Perzika, takes some getting used to. The overly sweet beer doesn’t seem to fit after the first two. Meanwhile, we order the main course. During the meal, I order another Nostra Domus beer.