Jordan > By camel through the desert

I wake up at half past seven. The balloon flight didn’t happen after all. Outside, the weather is beautiful and the wind has died down. After breakfast, we walk back to the road in about two and a half hours. We take turns riding on a camel for part of the way. Altogether, we have five camels at our disposal. It’s great fun to view the desert from atop a camel, but after about forty-five minutes, the swaying movement becomes quite enough. Along the way, we stop to look at inscriptions carved into the rock wall from ancient times and then continue through the Siq (gorge) to the endpoint. We arrive a bit early, so we take a short break at a Bedouin tent. As expected, tea is ready and waiting. It’s clearly a more luxurious campsite. At half past eleven, we arrive at the campsite at our final destination. Sitting in the sunshine, we enjoy a drink while waiting for lunch to be prepared. Ibrahim, our bus driver, comes over, smiling and enthusiastic as always.

Jordan - On the camel through the desert

After lunch, he drives us to Aqaba. It’s about an hour’s drive to this coastal town. Aqaba lies on the Gulf of Aqaba in the Red Sea. Originally, Jordan had no access to the open sea, but through a land swap with Saudi Arabia, Aqaba has become Jordan’s seaside and port city. Within a stretch of just thirty kilometers, Egypt, Israel, Jordan, and Saudi Arabia meet. From Aqaba, you can easily see the tall buildings of Israel’s Eilat across the water. Our hotel is located in the city center. Under the shower, I quickly rinse off all the desert sand. Now that I have access to my main luggage again, I change into clean clothes. We stroll into Aqaba, wander through the souq across from our hotel, and enjoy a drink on the pier by the beach. Around five o’clock, we’re picked up at the hotel for a visit to the hammam—a sauna, steam bath, scrub, and wash. After the jacuzzi, we’re given towels and turbans, and before we know it, we’re sitting down for tea. Apparently, the massage isn’t included in the package. In the evening, we go looking for a restaurant, preferably one that’s a bit lively. That turns out to be a challenge—most places are empty. It’s clearly not high season yet. At Hali Ali, many locals are dining, and it looks traditional. The owner invites us in right away. Not all locals seem equally pleased—some women quickly pull their veils forward. We’re led to the balcony, which feels a bit awkward, but the waiter reassures us that everything is “OK.” Probably true. We order a selection of appetizers and a fish dish, followed by a plate of sweet desserts. Back at the hotel, we end the evening with a beer. The bar is officially closed, but the receptionist kindly serves the drinks in the lobby.