Jordan > 'Petra by Night'

Despite the modest room, I slept very well last night. It was even warm, and I kicked off the blanket. When I step outside, it’s crisp. Luckily, the pot-bellied stove is still on at breakfast. At eight o’clock, we leave our guesthouse and drive a short distance by bus to the Dana Nature Reserve. Since we are off-season, the park itself is closed, but our local guide Achmed has planned a beautiful route. Achmed is a cheerful and enthusiastic man. We had already met him last night at the music evening, where he had fully let himself go dancing. The bus drops us off, and we follow Achmed into the nature reserve. Soon, we descend into a gorge, walking past stunning rock formations, rock-cut huts, and deep ravines. Along the way, Achmed explains the various plants and shrubs we see. He also points out birds flying overhead or perched atop the rocks. On a plateau against a rock wall, Achmed decides it’s time for a break. From his backpack, he produces a small kettle. In no time, he has a tiny campfire going, and shortly after, we’re all enjoying tea. It’s quite amusing, right in the middle of the rocky landscape. Around eleven-thirty, we return to the road and follow it to the main road. The bus was supposed to be there, but it hasn’t arrived. Annoyed, Achmed calls the driver.

Jordan - A mountain hike through Dana Nature Reserve

Ten minutes later, he comes to pick us up and drive us back to the guesthouse, where a delicious lunch awaits. After lunch, we say goodbye to the owner and head toward Wadi Musa, the town adjacent to Petra. I am really looking forward to this. It’s nearly a two-hour drive. Near Wadi Musa, we first visit Al-Beidha, an ancient town where trading caravans used to spend the winter. Many of the buildings and spaces are carved into the rock, earning it the nickname “Little Petra.” The first view of the temple at the start of the gorge is already stunning—a perfect preview of Petra itself. As we walk further into the gorge, we see rock-cut spaces on either side. Many of these were used as dining halls. The Painted Biclinium is the most famous, accessible via a carved staircase. Its painted ceiling, dating from the first century CE, is particularly remarkable. As we continue, the gorge narrows. We climb out on the other side using a small staircase and hands and feet. Amusingly, there’s another tea vendor here, though it seems unlikely he gets much business. We politely decline and continue on to Wadi Musa, to our hotel, Petra Plaza. We could have had our luggage brought to the rooms, but without small change, we decide to carry it ourselves. We quickly regret this—the elevator only goes to the third floor, while we need the sixth. Following signs, we pass a pool and enter another building, then eventually take the stairs up.

Jordan - The rockhewn Monastery in Petra

It turns out we’re in the wrong building. After some searching, we finally find our room. Later we learn the direct elevator to the sixth floor was out of service due to lobby renovations. In the afternoon, we walk to the center of Wadi Musa. All the hotels are about two kilometers outside the village, near the entrance to Petra. We follow the road uphill. Wadi Musa is not very large, with a few small shops. It doesn’t seem very touristy yet. One shop sign surprises us: “No dogs or Israelis.” We want a drink, preferably a beer, but this proves difficult in the center. One terrace sits at an intersection with cars kicking up clouds of dust. We decide to walk back and find a place near the hotel, ordering Petra beer—a tasty brew with 8% alcohol—accompanied by a piece of coconut cake, an amusing combination. Later, we eat at Sandstone, a small restaurant among the hotels. It’s clearly low season, as it isn’t busy. The air has grown chilly since sunset; I’m still wearing just a T-shirt. After dinner, I quickly return to my room to put on warm clothes. At quarter past eight, we gather at Petra’s entrance for “Petra by Night.” The gorge is lit with hundreds of candles. Walking in the dark under a stunning starry sky, we let the other participants go ahead, staying at the back for a more unique experience. The gorge is 1,200 meters long. Near the end, we hear the sound of a flutist. The first view of the Treasury is breathtaking—the 43-meter-high temple, carved entirely from rock, illuminated by candlelight, accompanied by flute music. Amazing! It’s so beautiful! Like the other visitors, I sit down in the sand and am immediately offered a cup of tea. I try to capture the atmosphere in a photo, but it doesn’t quite work, so I close my camera and just take it all in. Absolutely stunning!