Laos > Visit to the mountain tribes

At 7:30, the porters are already eager to carry the luggage down to the boat. I hand over my bags and head to the breakfast room. I can safely say I’m awake after a cold shower with only a few trickles of water. Today I’ve put on some extra layers to stay warmer on board. Half an hour later, we set off. Today we are sailing all the way to our final destination, Luang Prabang—a full day on the river. Once again, we are going against the wind, and the sun hasn’t shown itself yet. At the back of the boat, it’s quite bearable as long as you stay out of the wind. The crew has also laid out blankets today, which turn out to be their own duvets. After about an hour, the sun starts to break through, making things much more pleasant.

Laos - On the 35meterlong slowboat on the Mekong River

We stop at the village of Keang Haang. Right away, children come out to meet us, presenting scarves and cloths for sale. We climb up into the village. In the central square, Wan gives an explanation about the village and its temple and talks about the local people. The inhabitants of this village belong to the Lao Lum mountain tribe. Meanwhile, all the children in the village watch us closely. As we continue walking, we reach the “shopping street.” There are no actual shops here, but every house has its cloths and scarves laid out, especially for us. The village appears primitive, yet everything is neatly maintained. It still feels strange to us to see children playing with animals: one boy is playing with a chicken tied to a string, while a little girl further along keeps pulling a bamboo rat back by its hind legs. Every country has its own norms and values regarding animals. Back on board, a hearty lunch awaits us. Over a small wood fire on the back deck, a meal for twenty people has been prepared—a feat in itself. It tastes excellent. In the afternoon, we visit the village of Banton, home to the Kamu mountain tribe. Here, too, we are immediately welcomed. The entire population of Banton comes out to greet us. From a safe distance, they respond with “Sabahdee.” Unlike the previous two villages, we are not besieged by sellers. In the village, we visit a small school, where adults are also taught to read and write.

Laos - A houseboat on the Mekong River

The village chief is clearly pleased with a small donation for the school. After about an hour of sailing, we reach the Pak Ou caves, which house four thousand Buddha statues. A staircase leads from the river up to the caves. These caves have been used as a Buddhist sanctuary since the 16th century. From the caves, it’s still about an hour’s journey to Luang Prabang. Meanwhile, the sun slowly sets behind the mountains. Luckily, the Mekong bends here, so the wind now comes diagonally from behind, making it less bothersome. Around six o’clock, Luang Prabang comes into view. The Wat Xieng Thong temple is clearly visible from the river and is said to be one of the most beautiful temples in the city. A little further along, we dock and climb up to meet a small bus that will take us to the hotel. It only now occurs to me that traffic in Laos drives on the right, whereas in Thailand it’s on the left. Our hotel is within walking distance of the center. Perry gives an explanation of what to do in Luang Prabang over the next two days. Then we rush to our rooms for a shower. In the evening, we wander into Luang Prabang in search of a nice restaurant. We stroll past the night market and along the main street. In the city center, we find a cozy restaurant. Back at the hotel, we have a nightcap on a dark rooftop terrace. Around midnight, I go to bed.