Belgium > The traces of war

At half past eight, breakfast is ready for us in the adjacent room. Everything we need is there. During breakfast, we plan out the day. We’ll start at the Flanders Fields Museum, then follow a marked walking route through the city. Before we can set off, we need to move the car. Paid parking with a maximum stay of three hours applies during the day for the spots right outside the door. We drive back to the Lille Gate and follow the moat on the other side. We park the car right by the pedestrian bridge. Crossing this bridge, we’re practically back at the Bed and Breakfast. However, we decide to go onto the fortress walls after the bridge. From the fortress, we have a beautiful view of the moat on one side and Ypres on the other. The route along the city walls leads us to the Menin Gate. Even in daylight, the monument is impressive. Wreaths lie on the steps in memory of fallen soldiers. It’s a bit odd that traffic still passes under this gate. Two lions stand guard at the gate. These are replicas; the original lions were gifted to Australia. Not only soldiers from the United Kingdom fought here, but also fighters from Commonwealth countries. That’s why many victims come from Australia, New Zealand, India, and Canada. The Flanders Fields Museum is housed in the Cloth Hall. Through an audio tour, we are taken through the intense battles that raged around Ypres. Just outside Ypres, the German advance was stopped. The troops dug themselves into trenches. For years, they fired at each other. In October 1914, the Battle of Langemark was the first battle of Ypres. The Germans attacked, but the British repelled several assaults. The battle resulted in many German casualties. After a month, the Germans gave up the fight, having barely gained any ground. They did manage to capture the strategic Hill 60. From this natural vantage point, they could observe British and French troop movements.

Belgium - The victims of the First World War are commemorated in the Menin Gate

In the spring of 1915, the Second Battle of Ypres followed. The British placed large explosives under Hill 60. After the detonation, British and French troops retook the hill. The Germans responded with a gas attack. The troops were unprepared, resulting in many casualties. Still, the Germans failed to break through. The second battle caused 160,000 deaths. The Third Battle of Ypres is also known as the Battle of Passchendaele. In July 1917, the British tried to force a breakthrough. Tanks were used for the first time. However, the Germans were aware of the plans and had a large amount of artillery ready. Heavy rainfall made the terrain muddy. The tanks got stuck, and troops could barely advance. Both sides suffered heavy losses. After six months of fighting, only eight kilometers of land had been gained, at the cost of 450,000 soldiers. That is why the Battle of Passchendaele is often called the pointless battle. In March 1918, the Germans launched a major offensive. They bombarded the opponents with gas, breaking the line but gaining little ground. Due to losses, the Germans ran out of strength by the end of the war. In August, the Allies took the initiative and drove the Germans out. This led to the final armistice on November 11.

Belgium - Santa Claus is present on the Market Square of Ypres

The city of Ypres was never taken by the Germans during the siege, but it suffered greatly. Not a single building survived the war. After the war, the city was rebuilt with help from German reparations. The British actually wanted to preserve the city as a war monument in its damaged state, but the population chose otherwise. The museum has taught us a lot about the history of World War I in this region. As usual, the route through the museum ends at the café and the shop, where the Tourist Information is also located. We receive a booklet about the city with descriptions of the main buildings, and a tip for a walk on the former battlefield just outside the city. We decide to also join the Night Watch — a guided walk through the city as it slowly gets dark. In a café opposite the Cloth Hall, we order a drink and let the history sink in. In the afternoon, we follow a city walk through Ypres. The tour begins at St. Martin’s Church. The church was built in the 13th century and served as the cathedral of the diocese for a long time. In 1801, Napoleon Bonaparte ordered the diocese to move to Ghent, and the cathedral became a church again. Inside the church, the painting The Siege of Ypres by Joris Liebaert stands out. He painted in 1657 the siege that took place three centuries earlier. From the church, we walk under the Fish Gate to the former Fish Market. Fish was once sold on stone stalls here. On the other side of the market stands the tollhouse. Behind this small building is now a cozy Christmas market, where beer and mulled wine are sold at several stalls. Via Lille Street, we head toward the fortress ramparts.

Belgium - Nowadays the catering industry has taken over the former Fish Market

At the restaurant ’t Eiland, we cross the bridge and reach the outside of the moat. From here, the star-shaped defense system is clearly visible. Some islands in the moat provided an extra defensive line. Cannons were kept as far away as possible. We walk back into the city through Lille Gate. Next to Lille Gate lies a small cemetery. Several hundred white memorial stones symbolize the war victims. The route continues over Lille Gate, where we ascend the ramparts again. Near our Bed and Breakfast, we descend back to street level. Here lies St. Peter’s Church. Its origins date from the 12th century, but the church took its current form in the 15th century. During World War I, the church was nearly destroyed. After the war, it was rebuilt. Through the ramparts, we return to the Menin Gate. On the north side of the center, we wander through narrow streets. It’s hard to imagine that most houses here are less than a hundred years old. The atmosphere feels different. Around half past three, we’re back at the Grote Markt. In one of the cozy restaurants, we order a drink. Since we’ll only eat dinner after the Last Post ceremony tonight, we decide to have a small bite as we haven’t had lunch. A little before five, we return to the Tourist Info. The Night Watch city walk begins here. There’s quite a lot of interest. The group is split into two groups of about twenty people each. The guide, the night watchman, enthusiastically tells about the Cloth Hall and St.

Belgium - A guide takes us through Ypres in the dark

Martin’s Church. During reconstruction, the architect decided to place a spire on the church tower, making it taller than the Belfry of the Cloth Hall. Although not original, it’s a beautiful addition to the church. The guide’s luck isn’t great. At the church, the bells start ringing, and the fanfare passes by at the Grote Markt. At the fortress, we visit the casemates—covered spaces under the ramparts. What once served as shelter for soldiers now mostly houses cafes and restaurants. In one of the rooms is a model of the city after the war, based on aerial photos taken after the war. Only a few walls remained standing. Further in the fortress, the guide opens a small door. Via a spiral staircase, we enter an ice cellar. In winter, ice was collected here to keep goods cool for a long time. In the dark, this room has an eerie effect. We also visit the cemetery by Lille Gate. It’s a strange feeling to be there in the dark. I carefully watch my step so as not to step on a grave. After two hours, we return to the Grote Markt. It was an enjoyable and informative walk. As the last activity of the day, we head to the Menin Gate. Since 1928, the Last Post has been played here daily in honor of the fallen soldiers. It’s surprising how many people still come to attend. Could there be that many tourists? At exactly eight o’clock, three trumpeters sound the homage, followed by one minute of silence. After the ceremony, we quickly enter a restaurant. The standing still has made us cold. Luckily, it’s nice and warm inside the restaurant.

Belgium - Every evening the Last Post is still played in remembrance of the war victims