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Travelogue Weekend in Den Bosch

July 1618 2021 (3 days)


Netherlands > The Impressive Saint John's Cathedral

Dag 2 - Saturday 17 July 2021

At eight o’clock, we check in for breakfast in the restaurant. An extensive buffet is ready. Outside, the sun is shining. It promises to be a beautiful day to explore Den Bosch. From the hotel, we drive a short distance to the Transferium De Vliert. This parking lot is near the FC Den Bosch football stadium. From here, shuttle buses run to the city center. The bus is already waiting when we park the car. Quickly, we walk over. Less than ten minutes later, we get off at St. Jacobsstraat right in the historic center. From the bus stop, we can already see the impressive tower of St. John’s Cathedral. The terraces around the tower are just being set up. From the square, the Parade, we get a good view of how large the cathedral is. We decide to visit the church later. First, we wander through the streets. On both sides of the shopping street are narrow alleys. We explore every interesting alley. The narrower, the more charming. This way, we arrive at the Waterpoort (Water Gate) of Den Bosch. The city wall used to have three land gates and two water gates. Only this water gate is still partially intact. Behind the gate begins the Binnendieze. The Binnendieze is a system of small canals alongside the houses. The water was used for trade, transport, but also as the city’s sewer. Fifty years ago, the city wanted to get rid of the stinking canals. Fortunately, it was decided to preserve and renovate the system. At the end of the afternoon, we have booked a boat tour on the Dieze.

Netherlands - The Binnendieze flows throughout the center

The trip goes mostly under houses built over the water. For now, we continue on foot. At another bridge over the Dieze stands the old wooden entrance gate to the Groot Ziekengasthuis (Great Hospital). This gate dates from 1661. Around eleven o’clock, we return to St. John’s Cathedral. The Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Evangelist, as the church’s full name goes, was built in 1366. Originally, the church stood outside the city walls but within the second city wall. Later, the church was expanded in Brabantine Gothic style. The original tower was heightened. Above the nave, an even higher tower was built. During a lightning strike in 1584, the lightning hit the middle tower. The tower burned down completely. There was little money for restoration during the Eighty Years’ War. The roof was closed off by building a dome on top. In front of the church, the double flying buttresses are clearly visible. These arches provide strength to the Gothic cathedral. Devil figures are depicted on the arches, which is unique for such a cathedral. We enter the church. Immediately to the left stands the statue of the sweet Virgin Mary. Many pilgrims come to Den Bosch for this statue. On the other side of the entrance stands the 350-kilogram baptismal font from 1492.

Netherlands - At the top of St Johns Cathedral

Above the entrance hangs the organ. The organ is one of the most beautiful in the world. A church caretaker points out the carousel in the organ just below the clock. It depicts the Passion of Jesus. Every few minutes, the carousel turns. He also points to the pulpit, the centuries-old pews, and the wood-carved altarpiece with six panels. At half past eleven, I go to the tower. The guide, Bert, leads a group of six people up the tower. According to him, all boat trips are canceled today due to the high water level. I check my email and, to my disappointment, indeed see a cancellation. Too bad. Via a narrow staircase, I climb the centuries-old tower. We pass the medallion. On a large round drum, dots are attached. These determine how the medallion’s bells are controlled. Every quarter of an hour, a melody plays. We arrive just in time to see the mechanism start working. One floor up, the bells hang. The heaviest bell weighs over six hundred kilos, Bert explains. In total, there are eleven bells of various sizes. When the bell strikes, you feel the rumble in the tower. One floor higher hang the smaller carillon bells. The drum we saw earlier controls the bells. Bert times it well. Another quarter of an hour passes, and the carillon plays a tune. You feel the bells vibrate after each strike. Finally, we arrive at the platform by the clock faces.

Netherlands - The historic Refuge House on Spinhuiswal

Bert opens the door to the outside platform. I have a view over Den Bosch. It is extremely clear today, Bert says. You can see as far as Geertruidenberg and Zaltbommel, which is thirty kilometers away. After enjoying the view, I climb back down. At a terrace, I order a real Bossche bol — a large cream puff with chocolate. In the afternoon, we follow a city walk through the town using a guide to sights. The Oranje bastion served to defend the city. In the bastion, an exhibition is set up about the city’s defense. A film explains how the city could be defended. An interesting story. We follow the route to the Bossche Markt. The town hall dates from the second half of the 14th century. Across the street stands the Moriaan house. The oldest stone house in the city. Nowadays it houses the tourist information office. In Lepelstraat, in the Uilenburg district, there are cozy terraces along the Binnendieze. This was actually supposed to be where our boat tour started. As an alternative, we order a beer on the terrace. Behind us stands the statue of Zotte Lieve Gerritje — a legend about a highwayman. We follow the quay of the Binnendieze. Via the Commandeurspoort (Commander’s Gate), we finish the walk at the library. We have seen many sights of the city. In the narrow Korte Putstraat, there are plenty of restaurants. The one-way pedestrian traffic rule is largely ignored. At one of the terraces, we order something to eat. A nice way to end the day. At half past six, we board the bus back to the park-and-ride lot. Then, by car, we return to the hotel.

St JohnsThe impressive St Johns Cathedral of Den Bosch
View Den BoschView from the church tower of St Johns
St Johns CathedralThe vast cathedral of Den Bosch
Museum SlagerMuseum Slager in the former building of a fire insurance company