Serbia > The Manasija Monastery

Up early. We’re already at the breakfast buffet by seven o’clock. The buffet has just opened. Today we’re going on an excursion to the Manasija Monastery, about 140 kilometers southeast of Belgrade. Just after eight, while we’re waiting for the van, someone approaches us: “Who’s Ronald?” It’s Aleksandar, today’s guide. When the van arrives, we get in together. We’re the first passengers. We pick up six more people in Belgrade. Then we head toward Manasija. Along the way, Aleksandar talks about the city’s buildings and the country’s history. He sighs as he tells us that Belgrade has been the scene of war and conflict over a hundred times in the past, the most recent during the Balkan War. After the war, Serbia became an independent country in 2006. Before that, it was still united with Montenegro for three years. Serbia still considers Kosovo part of its territory, though Aleksandar acknowledges that it is governed independently. On the way, we pass through villages where many houses appear abandoned. The owners have moved abroad, but return in the summer for vacation. After a two-hour drive, we arrive at the Manasija Monastery.

Serbia - The 15th-century walled Manasija Monastery

The Serbian Orthodox church and the high surrounding walls date back to the 15th century. The walls and eleven defensive towers once protected the monks and local residents from attacks. Many original frescoes remain in the church, especially behind the altar and on the ceiling. The iconostasis is also impressively beautiful. After the visit to the monastery, we drive on to the Resava Caves. About sixty years ago, a local farmer discovered the caves by accident while searching for shelter. We are allowed to enter the caves with Aleksandar and just our group. A Serbian-language tour starts just behind us. We pass through stunning caverns filled with stalactites and stalagmites. It’s quite chilly in the cave. I put on a sweater I brought especially for this. The rock formations are beautifully lit. Sometimes we have to pass through narrow passageways to reach the next chamber.

Serbia - The beautiful rock formations in the Resava caves

Aleksandar tells us that only 800 meters of the cave are accessible to visitors, while several kilometers remain off-limits, much of it underwater. From the caves, we drive to the Veliki Buk waterfall in Lisine. It’s less than a 15-minute drive. From the parking lot, we first walk to the spring. The water appears to gush from the rocks out of nowhere. As we descend, we reach the Veliki Buk waterfall. Water crashes down from a height of twenty meters into a small pool. A beautiful sight. Next to the waterfall is a restaurant where we can have lunch. On the veranda, with the sound of the flowing water, I order a fish soup and a beer. Although many local Serbians visit this area on Sundays, the garden of the restaurant is serenely peaceful. At 3:15 p.m., everyone is back at the van, ready for the return trip to Belgrade. Soon, it seems everyone in the van has fallen asleep. As we approach Belgrade after two hours, the traffic becomes heavier—especially in the city center. At 5:45, we get out near the hotel. We thank Aleksandar and the driver for the enjoyable tour. In the evening, we go looking for a nice place to eat. We pass the restaurant we visited two days ago. We liked it then, so we decide to eat there again. A schnitzel, potatoes, and a beer. Afterward, we take one last stroll through the pedestrian zone and then head back to the hotel.