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Travelogue Weekend in Zierikzee

April 1012 2023 (3 days)


Netherlands > The 'Dikke Toren” (Thick Tower)

Dag 2 - Tuesday, 11 April 2023

I slept somewhat restlessly last night. I tossed and turned a lot, and I heard the city hall clock striking many times during the night. When I look through the curtains, I see sunny weather. It looks like it will be a beautiful day. Breakfast is ready downstairs. We could choose between two time slots: eight o’clock or nine o’clock. When we arrive at nine, two tables are set. We don’t get the impression that the hotel is much busier. The table is laid with a very extensive breakfast. A good start to our day. Opposite our hotel is the Hoeltje alley. During breakfast, we saw people continually going into it. Out of curiosity, we take this narrow street. We end up at Schuithaven, where the terrace of café de Zeeuwse Hemel is also located. We turn into Meelstraat. Here stands Huis de Haene. This house is one of the oldest houses in the Netherlands. Further along the street, we come to the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) with the separate Dikke Toren (Thick Tower) behind it. The church has a simple design and resembles a temple. In the tower, the usher explains the difference in design between the tower and the church. The tower was built in 1454 near the then St. Lievensmonsterkerk. To prevent damage to the tower, it was built separate from the cathedral at the time. Unfortunately, the St. Lievensmonsterkerk was completely destroyed by fire in 1832.

Netherlands - The New Church was built in 1848 after the church fire

On the site of the cathedral, a newer modern church was built. Inside the tower is a model of the old church. This church and the tower formed a single whole. In the original plans, the tower was to be 130 meters high. In the 15th century, Zierikzee was an important trading place and one of the major cities in the Netherlands. The tower was meant to surpass the Dom Tower in Utrecht. However, trade declined before the tower was completed, and the money ran out. We begin the climb of the 280 steps of the 60-meter-high tower. From the top, we see the entire old center of Zierikzee bathed in sunlight. We see the South and North Harbor Gates, the two grain mills, and the former city hall. From the tower, it is clear that a new harbor was constructed with a new passage to the Oosterschelde. We also see many small houses with stepped and bell gables. On the way to the De Hoop mill, we pass traditional fishermen’s cottages. The houses are not large but look cozy. De Hoop is a grain mill still in operation. The miller is just busy tightening the sails on the wings.

Netherlands - The exchange building at Harbor Square

There is enough wind for a productive mill day. In a café at the foot of the mill, we order coffee. We continue the route through the city toward the Vismarkt (Fish Market). The building of the Vismarkt now houses a restaurant. The old Vismarkt next to it is a quiet courtyard with houses. Passing the market, we come by the Gravensteen. This former prison now houses a world shop. Our city tour ends at the Nobelpoort, the northern city gate with its two towers. We have seen all the sights of Zierikzee. We walk back to the former city hall. The city hall is now a museum. At the entrance, we receive an iPad. On the iPad, we can request information per room. We are advised to watch the film on the ground floor first and then start on the attic floor. Here the historic building from 1370 is best viewed. With the iPad, it’s quite fun to explore the collection. After two hours, we have seen the entire museum. We return the iPad. Time for a beer. On a terrace in the sun and out of the wind, we order a beer. In the evening, we return for dinner to Café de Gekroonde Suikerbiet, where we were yesterday as well. There is just one table left. A cozy place and a good choice in terms of food.

View from Thick TowerView over the city of Zierikzee
The Templar HouseOne of the oldest houses of Zierikzee from the 16th century
Front side Templar HouseThe front side of the Templar House on Meelstraat
New Church ZierikzeeThe New Church was built on the site of the burned Saint Lievenmonster church