Suriname > Video camera stolen

Last night, it turned out that someone had gone through the bags in the sleeping quarters on the other side. Leon’s video camera had disappeared. The camera was taken while people were sitting on the bench close to the sleeping area. The crew was very upset and said that this had never happened before. A report was already made in the village of Drietabbetje, and the news is spreading. In the morning, John took the boat to see the shaman.

Suriname - At full speed the korjaal sails over the water

The shaman said he was confident the camera would be returned but could not do anything that day — on Thursdays, he is not allowed to work for others, as that brings bad luck. In the evening, an announcement would be made over the radio. Since everyone knows everyone in this area, John also expects that the camera will be returned before we reach Paramaribo. There is no police station in Drietabbetje, so we will have to file an official report on Stoelmanseiland. After breakfast, we pack our things and continue downstream. Half of the group gets into one korjaal (dugout canoe) together with the luggage and sails for half an hour to the Granholo Falls. The Granholo Falls is a rapid that is too large and wild to cross by boat. After the falls, we transfer to another, larger boat. That means saying goodbye to two of the crew members who stay behind in Drietabbetje with the boats. Since only one boat can be brought back, we are taken to the falls in two groups. At the Granholo Falls, there is a small 400-meter-long rail track. In the past, boats could be transported to the other side using a cart on these rails, but the cart had broken down and sunk. We unload our luggage and carry it by foot to the other side, where we wait for the other group. While swimming in the water, Yoerak discovers a cart underwater at the end of the rails. With this cart, we can collect the larger luggage from the second boat. Meanwhile, we go in search of a place to get a drink. Near the railway, loud music blares from speakers, and we see the Parbo Beer logo. Strangely enough, there is nothing available inside — everything is “sold out” (or perhaps they simply don’t feel like selling anything).

Suriname - The luggage has to be transferred to another boat

It takes quite some time before the other group arrives — they got stuck in the rapids. The cart turns out to be very useful for transporting the two large barrels, among other things. Meanwhile, Tony has fetched the other boat, and with some careful arranging, all the luggage fits inside the new boat. From here on, we sit three by three — quite cozy. In the new boat, we sail for about an hour to the small village of Tsjong Tsjong on the Tapanahony River. There, we set up camp again and hang our hammocks under a shelter. Lunch has already been prepared, and we enjoy the spaghetti. In the afternoon, we take a jungle hike to a waterfall — about one and a half hours each way. Only six hikers from the whole group join; the rest stay behind in Tsjong Tsjong. We are dropped off on the other side of the river by boat. Our local guide, Mebo, leads the way. He carries a large machete and a rifle over his shoulder. John assures us that it’s just a precaution — a pity, because otherwise we might have encountered some bigger wildlife. Mebo is not very talkative. He walks briskly ahead on the narrow path, barefoot, paying little attention to the group. John takes up the rear. We cross several small streams, balancing on tree trunks or scrambling over rocks. At another stream, Mebo advises us to take off our shoes since there will be several crossings ahead. This doesn’t seem like a great idea, so we decide to cross using the rocks instead, with John helping us. His slippers make it easier for him to step into the water. A few meters ahead, Mebo suddenly crouches down, aims his rifle upward, and shoots a large bird from a tree. With a loud thud, it falls to the ground.

Suriname - The beautiful sunset on the Tapanahonie River

We watch in surprise. Quickly, he covers the bird with leaves to pick up on the way back. After another half-hour of walking through beautiful surroundings, we reach the waterfall. John is one of the first to stand beneath it, and a few others follow. The swarm of biting flies makes it less inviting, so I decide not to dive in. After a short break, we walk back along the same path, clambering again over the streams. Fortunately, my hiking boots handle the water well and stay dry inside. On the way back, Mebo picks up his catch. He ties a twig to its head and feet and slings it over his shoulder, then continues walking at a fast pace. Around a quarter past five, we reach the river again. It’s already getting dusky. With a loud call across the river, the boat is summoned, and a few minutes later we’re back at the campsite. After dinner, John gives an extensive explanation about life in the interior of Suriname — marriage customs, schooling, and much more. Meanwhile, we enjoy a beer from the village. The beer had been ordered earlier in the afternoon so it could be chilled especially for us. When all the bottles are empty, we head to bed.