United States > The gaping hole of 9/11

Around eight o’clock, I wake up. This morning I take it easy and watch the morning programs on the television from bed. Around half past nine, freshly washed, I have a cup of coffee in the hotel lobby. After that, I walk into New York. Via Fifth Avenue, I head south. Along the way, I pass through the various neighborhoods of New York. As I move further toward downtown Manhattan, the surroundings transition from simple houses to increasingly luxurious buildings. At the end of Fifth Avenue, near Washington Square, the skyscrapers rise dramatically.

United States - The site of the World Trade Towers

In the park at Washington Square, I sit on a bench and enjoy watching daily life. Just past this point, the Soho neighborhood begins. From here, the street layout is no longer strictly straight and angular. Soho originated as a working-class neighborhood with small houses and apartments. The streets are characterized by the cast-iron fire escapes on the exterior of the buildings. At a terrace on Prince Street, I order a cappuccino. Continuing south, I pass Ground Zero, the site of the former World Trade Towers. The construction site is surrounded by a high iron fence. Only some damage to surrounding skyscrapers serves as a reminder of the horrific attacks at this location. The subway under the WTC has been restored. From the metro entrance, I have the best view of the entire construction site. Crossing the temporary pedestrian bridge over the street, I enter the Financial Center. The Financial Center is slightly elevated, giving me a view over Ground Zero.

United States - A large TV screen in front of the Financial Center showing the US Open semifinals

I try to imagine the destruction and chaos from four years ago. I realize my capacity for understanding likely falls far short of the reality. On the other side of the Financial Center, rehearsals are underway for the ceremony scheduled for the day after tomorrow, September 11. From the Winter Garden, the large glass-covered atrium, I walk outside. At the quay, a large grandstand and video screen have been set up for the US Open. Today, the US Open is being played just a few kilometers away in Brooklyn. I watch part of the women’s semifinal. The weather is too nice to stay seated, so I buy a mixed salad and find a shady spot to eat. After lunch, I walk through Battery Park to Clinton Bastion, where the ferry to Staten Island departs. The ferry is about to leave, so I quickly board. From the ferry, I have a beautiful view of Manhattan’s skyline. The ferry also passes the Statue of Liberty, the main reason for my boat trip. Although I am still several hundred meters from the iconic statue, my telephoto lens allows me to take a good picture. Since there isn’t much to do on Staten Island itself, I head straight back to the departure hall upon arrival to return on the same ferry. Fortunately, I make it just in time.

United States - The Statue of Liberty

Back on Manhattan, I walk into the Financial District. The tall buildings are closer together here and seem even taller than elsewhere in the city. This results in dark streets with little daylight. Before I realize it, I am in Wall Street, the financial heart of the world. The stock exchange building is heavily guarded. At the end of Wall Street stands Trinity Church. I can hardly imagine that this church was once the tallest building in Manhattan. Today, the church is hidden in the shadows of the surrounding skyscrapers. Trinity Church and the nearby St. Paul’s Chapel have played important roles in commemorating the 9/11 attacks. In St. Paul’s Chapel, banners and tributes to New York firefighters are still displayed, and the victims are remembered. In the Financial Center, I order a beer at a small café and watch part of the second women’s semifinal on the television screen. I walk back to my hotel via City Hall, the Courthouse, and through Chinatown, a lively area full of small shops. By now, it is already dark. I decide to have dinner at a Mexican restaurant near the hotel. I end the evening with a glass of wine in my hotel room.