Wales > A pub tour through Cardiff

At breakfast on the first floor of the hotel, I meet everyone again. It is raining outside. People walk along the streets with umbrellas. The city immediately takes on a different, somewhat bleak appearance. As I walk into the city, it is practically dry. Along the Taff River, I stroll past the enormous Millennium Stadium. This stadium was built in 1999 for the Rugby World Cup. It is almost unimaginable that such a large building was constructed right in the city center. Across the road lies Bute Park. This park used to be part of the gardens of Cardiff Castle. Today, it is a public park. On the other side of the park stands the National Museum. In this characteristic building from 1905, the history of Wales is displayed—from the Ice Age to the present. Several paintings by well-known artists are also exhibited, including Rembrandt’s portrait of Catrina. In the afternoon, we decide to split up so that everyone can do what they feel like. Bart and I take a walk around the inner harbor. I walk along the Taff River, passing the typical British working-class houses—rows of red-brick terraced homes.

Wales - The town hall of Cardiff

On the opposite side of the river, factories once stood, mainly trading in coal. During the Second World War, this industry suffered a setback. Companies had to close their doors, and many workers became unemployed. Only in the 1990s did the Cardiff Bay area regain attention. Hotels and restaurants emerged, and with the construction of the barrage, the inner lake became an attractive spot for water sports enthusiasts. As I continue walking around the inner lake, the houses and apartments become more luxurious. The marina is full of expensive sailing yachts. At the Marine Harbor, near the locks I visited yesterday, I order a sandwich and coffee. Although it is still cloudy, it is dry, and the sun even tries to break through the clouds. At the locks, the bridge is just opening as sailing boats return from the sea. Via the barrage, I return to Cardiff Bay. From a distance, I see the Norwegian Church. This striking white wooden church is a replica of the one built here by the Norwegians. The characteristic harbor building, the Pierhead, was heavily damaged during the Second World War.

Wales - The characteristic harbor building of Cardiff Bay

The stately red-brick building has been fully restored. Inside, a film shows the decline of the harbor and its current revival. Just in time, I return to the Elevens Bar & Grill restaurant for dinner. I have walked twelve kilometers. In the pub, I meet everyone again. The pub, owned by footballer Gareth Bale, is preparing for the derby between Manchester City and Manchester United. While I order my food, the exciting match begins. The game can be followed on numerous screens. City dominates the first half, going into halftime two-nil. We decide to call it a night with the match. At 6:30 p.m., the Historical Pub Tour begins. Chris and Elena take us on a tour of traditional pubs in the city, humorously explaining the history of Cardiff along the way. In the pubs we visit, we have a beer. We also hear that United eventually won the derby 3-2. It must have been an exciting second half. The pub tour concludes with a quiz. Although my group is six points behind on the final question, you can—how coincidental—score exactly seven points with the last estimation question: In which year did the Angel Hotel, where the tour started, open? We are only three years off and win the quiz.

Wales - The old cathedral of Cardiff

I end the evening in Café Duke. On my walk back to the hotel, I see several bachelor parties roaming the city. The nightlife street is full of activity—a bizarre mix of scantily dressed girls on high heels and men completely drunk leaning against shop windows. No wonder every pub has security. Things must go wrong here sometimes. Amidst the nightlife chaos, homeless people in the shop porticos prepare for another night. I let it all pass by and head back to my hotel room.