Bhutan > The Tiger's Nest climb

Today one of the highlights is on the agenda: the trail to the famous Tiger’s Nest. Rinchen already prepared us yesterday for a steep climb to the monastery. We start at 2,350 meters altitude and climb to the Tiger’s Nest at over three thousand meters. He expects it will take us about two hours to reach the monastery. At half past seven, a van is ready with a different driver. Our car turns out to have a broken fuel pump that needs to be replaced. It’s uncertain whether this part can be obtained on a Sunday. The new driver, Tandin, drives us in about half an hour to the foot of the mountain near the Tiger’s Nest. The Tiger’s Nest, also known as Paro Taktsang, is a Buddhist shrine and monastery complex located high above the Paro Valley in Bhutan. The history of the Tiger’s Nest dates back to the 8th century, and it is known as one of the most sacred places in Bhutan. According to legend, Guru Rinpoche meditated in the caves of the Tiger’s Nest. Guru Rinpoche is considered the founder of Buddhism in Bhutan and is revered as the second Buddha. The legend tells that he flew on the back of a tiger and landed at the spot where the monastery now stands. The Tiger’s Nest consists of nine temples and residential quarters. The complex is spectacularly built on the cliffs of the Paro Valley, about 900 meters above the town. It is one of Bhutan’s most remarkable sights and an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists. At the parking lot, walking sticks are rented out. Just to be safe, I take a stick for the descent. This relieves my knees. For 100 Ngultrum, just over 1 euro, it’s a small price to pay. We set off. The first part of the trail goes gently uphill. I walk at a steady pace to avoid exhaustion. I don’t mind being overtaken by several other tourists. Some stand further ahead gasping for breath. I am also passed by people who chose to go up on horseback. They can go halfway up. After that, they still have to climb the last part. Rinchen warns to stand to the mountain side when horses pass, as a wrong movement could push you off the edge. As I continue climbing, Paro grows smaller behind me. I am surprised when Rinchen says we are nearing the teahouse. We have been walking just over an hour. Given our slow pace, I had expected we’d need more time. We are halfway. From the terrace, we have a view of the higher-located Tiger’s Nest. Part of the monastery is still in the shade. Hopefully, the sun will move enough before we reach the top. After the break, we start the second part of the trail. Logs have been made into steps along the path. Sometimes these are pleasant to walk on, but sometimes the steps are just a bit too large to get into a good rhythm.

Bhutan - Tigers Nest is on a steep cliff of Paro Valley in Bhutan

Around quarter to eleven, we reach the viewpoint. From here we have a beautiful view of the Tiger’s Nest. The monastery lies on the other side of the steep cliff. To reach the monastery, we first have to go down about three hundred steps on a constructed staircase, then climb another three hundred steps. It’s noticeable that we are at three thousand meters altitude. Although after a week in Bhutan, we are much more accustomed than in the first days. Some people start the Tiger’s Nest trail immediately upon arriving in Bhutan. That seems tough to me. At the monastery, all luggage must be stored in a locker. No cameras or photo equipment are allowed inside. Rinchen takes us to the first temple. This temple is next to the cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated for months. The cave itself is closed off. One day per year, the cave is opened and visitors can look inside the meditation cave. In total, the complex has nine temples. Eight are accessible to visitors. The last temple is only accessible to monks. The temples honor gods and Buddha reincarnations. Each temple is beautiful. Rinchen calmly explains what the images represent and how to recognize them.

Bhutan - The monastery is considered a holy place where Guru Rinpoche

He balances his story well so it doesn’t get tedious. Because we visit the temples without shoes, my feet get cold on the rocky ground. I try to stand in the sunlight that shines through a small window into the temple. After visiting all the temples, Rinchen takes us to the actual Tiger’s Nest. Here, Guru Rinpoche is said to have landed when he began his meditation. Through narrow wooden stairs in a low cave, I see a small lamp in the back of the cave. “That was the place,” Rinchen says enthusiastically. Around one o’clock, we are ready for the return trip. First, we reach the viewpoint on the monastery via the stone stairs. The sun now shines better on the monastery for photos. On the descent, I occasionally use my rented stick. Partly to relieve my knee, but also to avoid slipping on loose stones. I safely reach the teahouse. A lunch buffet is ready here. This is probably the usual sequence for most visitors. The restaurant is busy. Around a quarter past three, we are back at the parking lot. Tandin is already waiting for us here. Rinchen tells us he has news from Gelle. The part for the broken car has been delivered and he is now waiting for a mechanic. This gives us the opportunity to say goodbye to him and to give him a small tip. In the hotel lobby, we drink a beer. Tonight is the last night we are in Bhutan. Tomorrow, our paths will separate in India. Tonight we eat at a farmhouse in Paro. Here are also traditional hot stone baths. In such a wooden tub, stones are heated red-hot by fire. This results in a hot bath. Each bath is in its own small room. Carefully, I lower myself into the hot water.

Bhutan - Hot stones are placed in the water of a steam bath

When I want a new hot stone, I have to knock on the wooden hatch. “Be careful not to get your feet too close to the stones,” I am warned. One guest gets overwhelmed by the heat and faints. Men quickly rush over with cold water. After the bath, we are received in the farmhouse. Food is served from the kitchen while we sit on cushions on the floor. Rinchen and Tandin also eat with us. A German tourist and her driver and guide are also present. The food tastes great. We return to the hotel. In my room, I repack my luggage for the flight tomorrow morning.